May the road rise to meet you
By Patrick Duffey
Three days have passed since arriving here in the Philippines and I have had maybe 10 hours asleep. From a hotel room high in Makati, I can view a clear and rare scenic skyline of what looks similar to dozens of downtown San Francisco’s.
Being able to let loose and relax are what brings me back to the Philippines for two months every year. It’s about the freedom to of being able to let loose and color outside the lines. Back in United States, any attempt of doing this is big trouble. But here in the Philippines, there’s unrestricted freedom as long as no embarrassment or harm comes from your actions.
Here there is pride, values and something called self shame that lacks in some other countries such as the U.S. And there’s the hospitality Filipinos are known for, accompanied with the smiles that truly show the beauty of the people here.
When I left the United States, which I easily referred to as “the comic section in the Sunday paper,” there was still no president. Days later, I found out that George W. Bush had won the election stolen from Al Gore. While other eyes were on the United States, mine were set on the impeachment trial of (former) President Joseph Estrada.
With rumors of a possible military coup, synchronized demonstrations led by vice President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo, past President Cory Aquino and also past President Fidel Ramos filled the streets of Manila asking their compatriots to exhibit their strength in keeping democracy alive.
While poverty is the fact of life for many, change is imperative. Always in the back of my mind I know the economy is terrible and rough. Foreign investors pulling out left and right to leaving cities of skyscrapers abandoned and the peso souring at 52. However, it seems as though that everyone has the purpose here, even the poorest will find something to do for a peso or two instead of lying around.
I’ve traveled throughout Luzon by myself without any companions, sometimes friends hitch a free ride with me when they hear I’m traveling to different islands. This time of my friends, Franco, who has come to the islands in the past with me shall shall not join me. He is the main bodyguard of the mayor of Caloocan, Manila. Although he will not be able to join me this time because it is Christmas, nor will my driver Noling. Still we managed to get together and spend the afternoon till next day catching up. Of course it is necessary to drink because he does not speak English and my tongue is twisted when it comes to Wari-Wari.
I have tried to meet up with Richard in January from back in San Francisco a few months before my trip to the Philippines, but it is useless. Is now time to head south for my main purpose of why I came here in December. My usual route from Metro Manila toward Samar is by bus. Its journey of 20 plus hours winding through forest in small towns I’m able to meet many different people and see the way of life close-up. Instead of a boat or train, I decided to fly this time because I was running out of time and having way too much fun.
I took a small plane (Cebu-Pacific)out of the airport near Ninoy-Aquino Airport. Aloft for about 15 minutes, we were flying past Mayon volcano, perfect cone shaped standing high into the clouds with a small amount of smoke coming from its top. I can view the hundreds of islands in the emerald pristine waters from within my window seat.
I landed in Tacloban, Leyte the next island south of Samar. We did some airobatics trying to pinpoint our landing area then finaly on an extremely small runway we stopped. Within the couple of hundred yards we land and we do a u-turn and return towards a small building that they call an airport. We walked from the plane outside to where the baggage is being drawn by hand and carts to where is placed on the table inside. Just grab we think it’s yours, because there’s nobody checking tags here! Attempting to find transportation I was informed that there were no more buses going to where I needed. So,,, I had no other choice in the matter into rent a driver with his car for an afternoon drive in the country.
Once out of the airport my driver told me that in fact there were still buses available. Heeding me to do this but with such honesty and possibly losing his fair, I wanted to keep him even more so. We talked continually along the way about what I observed in my visits is a foreigner and a travel writer. We both have thoughts and ideas, which we shared and the conversation was stimulating to say the least.
Nole has somewhat of a twisted sense of humor just like me as I find out as we added points for dodging chickens and dogs that insist on lying in the roadway. He was as happy that I was there as I was for having him as my driver for the five hour ride. We drove heading north up the coast and overdue sheer cliffs of mountains with waterfalls through a virgin rain forest. Though I did not see any virgins.
Near the end half-way Nole allowed me to take the drivers seat on the road. I refused to the opportunity to drive in Manila- that’s for the seasoned professionals. But here as I drive into what should be familiar, it is dark and my sense of direction is quite awkward, and I realize that everything is different now. Last year oil lamps lit the houses and sari-sari stores now have given way to intrusive fluorescent lights. I can somehow smell the innocence slip away.
This throws me off guard so much I drive right into the next town. I managed a u-turn and headed back only to get lost within this small town. Embarrassed in front of Nole my friend, I ask directions to Boyting’s house. As chance would have it, a long-lost friend from years ago hopped in only to take us about one in half blocks. Now, I really am embarrassed for certain!
My face hurts so much from laughing and smiling as I am home again finally. I feel like a teenager whenever I’m here, alive again. Damn good to be back! I feel honored to have Nole as my new friend.
Roadwarriors copywritten
dustyroadsagain@gmail.com
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